It seems as if nearly every day, news of an environmentally responsible beauty package or practice appears in my inbox. These announcements of advances in our industry come from suppliers, brands and organizations around the world.

Consumer demand lies at the heart of many of these packaging launches and facility or process upgrades, and when I’m out and about at events, I frequently hear about the particular influence of millennials and those in Generation Z in this regard. They are determined and powerful groups and committed to their values when making purchasing decisions. They’re reading labels more carefully and looking for more transparency in the products they are willing to spend their money on. Along with being more conscious of the foods they’re eating and the products they are putting on their skin and hair, they’re also considering the health of the planet and, in accordance, are rethinking and altering their habits. These same factors are also weighing in on many baby boomers’ product choices.

Cost efficiencies throughout the supply chain also remain a key motivator for brands investigating sustainable options in everything from materials to manufacturing processes.

Looking for compact container?

Packaging Sustainability Trends

Anne Bedarf, senior manager of the Sustainable Packaging Coalition (SPC), an industry group dedicated to a more robust environmental vision for packaging, says that, in general, packaging sustainability trends tend to be the same across all sectors, including beauty. These encompass sustainable sourcing such as forest certification and biopolymer use; material optimization such as source reduction and light weighting; design for recycling and composting; and labeling for recyclability. There is also a focus on eliminating toxicity at both the product and package level.

She says there is overall increased demand for sustainable packaging and practices, “although there is a perception that it has slowed more recently.”

Bedarf believes that companies are recognizing the long-term benefits such as resiliency, risk reduction, adequacy of supply and brand equity. Environmentally responsible packaging “has become a standard practice to incorporate sustainability goals into corporate decision-making,” she explains. “There has been a big focus on metrics, measurement, and goals, but the next step of taking action against these metrics is not happening very quickly. There is a lot more pre-competitive industry collaboration.”

On the consumer side, Bedarf says demand focuses mainly on recyclability, but also as it relates to material health.

Still, she says, there is no package considered “sustainable” today; rather, attributes and other metrics—such as recycled content or percentage manufactured with renewable energy—are used collectively to meet corporate sustainability goals. So one cannot say “a brand is using X amount of sustainable packaging,” she explains.

As insufficient recycling facilities and lack of knowledge are sometimes obstacles to the end of life for some products, Bedarf suggests that consumers start looking for the SPC’s How2Recycle Label on products, including Aveda and Target brands.

Rethinking Packaging

William McDonough, author of the iconic Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things, in which he espouses his thoughts on eliminating waste, acknowledges that his end goal can be difficult to achieve—but it is possible. McDonough says it’s all about changing your thinking about what constitutes beautiful packaging.

“It is time to reimagine how we package everything—by charting a path to enduring value,” he says, adding, “packaging can be beautiful—endlessly.” As special guest speaker at Luxe Pack New York, on May 13, McDonough will explore “how human ingenuity can transform how we think about packaging.” (Please see Beauty Packaging’s interview with McDonough in this issue.)

General Trends

Much of the responsibility for achieving environmentally responsible packaging goals falls to the industry’s suppliers. In the past year, I have heard a number of outright appeals from beauty brands for suppliers to contact them if they can offer environmentally responsible packaging solutions such as increased PCR content, biodegradable bottles, innovative manufacturing solutions and the like. On the other hand, some measures that seemed to provide solutions have proved ineffective. For instance, several suppliers and brands we spoke with have dropped their light weighting approach to packaging, as in some instances, protection of the product and the look on shelf were compromised when taking this tack.

As the experimentation with packaging and the generation of satisfactory solutions continues, it remains an exciting time for innovation in the beauty industry.

In talking with numerous suppliers, brands and agencies for this article, we plotted a number of current trends.

For one, there seems to be a general feeling that environmental concerns regarding packaging are currently of greater interest in Western European nations, where sustainability is more widely regarded as a positive social behavior—and where there are also more related standards. Also, and as expected, many of the brands/products that offer “sustainable packaging” are those that have a “natural” DNA. But the list is growing all the time—and whether the brands are large or small, global or local, many are taking advantage of supplier innovation like that which we describe here.

Increased Demand

A quick look at beauty shelves shows that efforts toward re-thinking the earth’s health have come a long way. A vast number of packages, whether plastic or paperboard, now bear symbols such as the recycling icon—perhaps the greatest sign that brands have responded en masse. More and more, the story of products and their packaging is being told on the primary or secondary container.

Jonathan Dudlak, general manager, Chicago Paper Tube & Can Company, says that demand for sustainable packaging and practices “is the single-most consistently growing trend we’ve seen in packaging over the past five to ten years.”

The same is true at Pujolasos where Àngel Pujolasos, product and sales manager, reports: “Environmental awareness has grown exponentially in recent years. At Pujolasos, we see it as a sign of a more mature society, which is increasingly more demanding not only in terms of what a product provides, but also in how it is produced.” 

Suppliers say that environmentally related requests often vary depending on the size of the brand.

For instance, Joanna Milne, sales manager, Virospack, based in Spain, says, “From the larger brands, the requests are more of sustainable production practices versus the actual packaging, unless they are a renowned name for environmentally friendly products.” Whereas from the smaller brands, Milne says it is the other way around. “They want to present a fully sustainable product and don’t inquire too much about the actual production practices.” She says there is definitely an increase in demand, especially in the West European markets “because being eco-friendly is a positive social feature.”

Milne says that many brands start off with green ingredients and then search for sustainable packaging where appropriate, because product compatibility and costs are still a priority for most brands when it comes to primary packaging.

“We observe that there are more and more small brands in the Ecocert and vegan [categories], and they are requesting the use of materials certified by Ecocert or similar organizations—not only that the materials used are recycled, also that all components are recyclable, even if the end user will never be able to disassemble the packaging to distribute it correctly,” explains Milne.

At SGD, Sheherazade Chamlou, vice president sales and marketing, perfumery division, says they, too, have been experiencing increased demand for sustainable packaging.

“Many brands in the beauty industry are focusing on tailoring their strategies and products toward more eco-optimal solutions,” says Chamlou. “The demand for resource efficiency, green materials, and effective waste management is growing.”

She says SGD’s leading request in this area is for eco-friendly glass—“typically asked for by brands that market themselves and their product lines as all-natural and organic.”

Packaging papers are often a key concern of brands, and Mark Sng, director of marketing, Neenah Packaging, says “Today, having a sustainable offering is a given, so yes, we are experiencing an increased demand which is proportionate to the overall increase in demand we are seeing for Neenah’s premium 

packaging papers and materials.” He says most marketers and brands now incorporate environmental attributes into their premium packaging designs as an integral part of their design and product development process. (This includes such things as choosing papers made from renewable resources, papers made with recycled content, increasing the post consumer waste content, decreasing the footprint of their package or box, and the use of sustainable print techniques.)

“Increasingly,” says Sng, “brands want to understand the sustainability practices of their suppliers along the entire chain of custody, and will choose their partners accordingly.”

Interest is also on the rise at RockTenn, where Jessica Kimbrough, vice president, marketing, consumer packaging, says, “Our customers are increasingly interested in developing packaging that has sustainable benefits, but that does not impact the package’s on-shelf and in-store appeal. We find that our customers are specifically interested in using renewable and recyclable materials in their packaging and investigating the use of associated sustainability claims to communicate their sustainability message to consumers.”

Rosalyn Bandy, senior sustainability manager at Avery Dennison Label & Packaging Materials, explains why they are seeing a strong growth trend in this area. “If you look around at the majority of beauty companies, nearly all have sustainability goals and metrics; packaging and labeling are a major component of those initiatives. There is an increased emphasis on the recyclability of containers to help make more of an impact on these goals. Manufacturers are also looking at recycled content for both packaging and labeling.”

As some suppliers see an increase in demand for “green” packages, many still see buyers struggling with cost constraints.

While Wendi Caraballo, marketing manager, Essel Propack Americas, LLC, says they are seeing an increase in demand for sustainable packaging “as the U.S. pushes for companies to go green,” utilizing sustainable materials can often be more expensive than traditional packaging. “The higher costing of sustainable packaging can deter many companies from using ‘green’ packaging and continue to use conventional packaging,” she says.

Looking for Lip gloss container?

 

Some practices that seemed effective at first have proven otherwise with experience. For instance RockTenn’s Kimbrough now believes, “The future of sustainable packaging lies in the use of renewable and recyclable materials.” She says that in the past, improved sustainability many times was defined in terms of packaging reduction, as success was easily measured through a reduction in weight. “By focusing on that single metric, however,” she explains, “many of our customers developed ‘sustainable’ packages that were unsuccessful in store—i.e., that were too small, which reduced shelf presence and impacted sales and their brands’ success.”

That, she says, was obviously not the answer. “We are now seeing an interest from our customers to develop packaging that maintains on-shelf appeal, but includes improved sustainability characteristics. This involves our customers using their packaging to highlight the overall sustainability of their entire product by investigating the use of renewable and recyclable materials, and specialty inks, coatings and enhancements that provide reduced environmental impact,” Kimbrough explains.

There’s no doubt that brands are more thoroughly examining practices as well as packages for their sustainability levels throughout the entire supply chain. 

At glass bottle and container decorator, Decotech, Inc., Richard Engel, president and COO, tells Beauty Packaging: “Clients are beginning to look beyond just the packaging material for sustainability or recyclability. They are beginning to ask questions about the environmental impacts of the manufacturing practices that went into making the product.”

Transparency in Glass

The use of glass bottles and jars has expanded in recent years, as its recyclability is relatively simple. Glass jars can also be re-used or re-purposed.

SGD has developed Infinite Glass Neo, which Chamlou calls “a new type of glass,” made from 90% recycled materials. In 2008, SGD launched Infinite g lass, which is composed of 100% recycled materials. Now, in 2015, with the goal of combining aesthetics and eco-friendliness, Chamlou says, “SGD has evolved its Infinite Glass formula to be brighter and more transparent in order to cater to the demanding aesthetic criteria of the beauty industry.” She says that the new Infinite glass “no longer has the slight green tint of the original version.” SGD is  able to achieve this perfectly transparent look by using only clear post-consumer recycled glass, which is bought from a recycling scheme that sorts recycled glass by color.

Chamlou says SGD’s leading request is for eco-friendly glass, “typically asked for by brands that market themselves and their product lines as all-natural and organic.”

SGD Brazil recently developed new packages using Infinite glass for Natura. Chamlou explains that Natura’s new sustainability vision, published in December 2014, consists of their products using 10% recycled material in their total mass of containers. The fragrances Humor, Kaiak, Essencial for men, and Ekos Frescor will be the first to use SGD’s new Infinite glass formula, which will also be used by other Natura brands in the coming months.

In-Grained in Wood

Perhaps no material denotes a sense of the environment quite like wood—and in the past couple of years, wooden packaging has become a growing presence in beauty product packaging. Spain has become a hotbed of production in wooden componentry, from caps to bottles, accessories to compacts.

Technotraf, Quadpack’s manufacturing division in Torelló, Spain, has developed a new Travel Purse Spray, which combines glass with wood for an elegant, environmentally friendly solution for fragrances on the go. The packs comprise a standard glass bottle encased in a beautiful wooden sheath made of sustainably sourced (PEFC-certified) maple. The wooden case—also available in beech and ash—can be cylindrical, rectangular or, in fact, any geometrical shape. Among the decoration options are laser engraving and color staining, including finishes in a range of soft pastel colors. The cases can be refilled if desired, or the components taken apart for recycling.

In response to the “green” trend in cosmetic packaging, Virospack’s Milne says, “We  decided to develop a very original and highly refined wooden finish for our cosmetic droppers. This new high quality wood accentuates the ecological concept and can attract a new clientele concerned about the environment.” She says that all the wood used in Virospack’s sophisticated wood finish cosmetic droppers comes from sustainable, PEFC-certified forests, “which assures the promotion and the sustainable management of forests by guaranteeing a long-lasting access to the wood.” The rest of the components are recyclable, and the plastic components are partially recycled materials.

Pujolasos, too, says customers often ask for guarantees that “we respect the environment, even beyond what is set forth in environmental regulations. In our case, we have the PEFC Forest Certification (among others), which guarantees sustainable forest management and a minimal impact on the environment. In fact, he says, “all of our products follow a ‘green’ criterion because it is one of our commitments toward customers and society.” The supplier recently showcased Luxury Wood, a wooden cap with a metallic effect for cosmetics. “This example shows that we can still innovate without losing 100% respect for the environment,” he says.

Plentiful Plastics

Growing environmental concerns and the need to reduce pollution have led to an increased emphasis on the use of recyclable and biodegradable materials for packaging, in some cases, the use of plastic resins derived from renewable resources.

For instance, Aveda claims to be the first beauty company to combine PCR and bioplastics in a plastic tube. When it is not possible to use 100% PCR, Aveda has started to combine PCR with bioplastic to use less virgin petrochemical plastic. The brand has launched this new packaging with the Aveda Dry Remedy moisturizing conditioner and moisturizing masque tubes (see Sidebar)

A new study by research firm Technavio, says a shift to eco-friendly packaging will positively impact the global bioplastic packaging material market by 2019. TechNavio’s analysts forecast the market will grow at a CAGR of 23.75% over the period 2014-2019.

Bioplastics are plastics made from renewable biomass sources or food crops such as vegetable fat, cornstarch, vegetable oil, pea starch, and microbiota. According to Technavio, bioplastic packaging products are considered more sustainable than conventional plastic packaging products as they consume fewer natural resources, and  help lessen our dependence on dwindling fossil fuel supplies.

“To increase the focus on sustainability, several manufacturers are adopting bio-based packaging solutions that offer viable alternatives for chemicals and conventional plastics,” says Faisal Ghaus, vice president of Technavio. The latest report by Technavio also draws attention toward the increased use of bioplastic packaging solutions that is gaining importance in emerging regions like the APAC region and South America because of the increased demand for effective, advanced and eco-friendly packaging.

“Markets in several countries in the APAC region, like China and India, are expected to witness fast growth at a higher CAGR in the coming years,” says Ghaus.

In this vein, Earth Renewable Technologies recently debuted EarthBottle, a plant-based packaging solution that is made from EarthMatter, a proprietary formulation that is described as a responsible alternative to petroleum-based plastics—and ideal for natural and personal care products as well as pharmaceuticals and household goods.

“More than ever before, consumers are seeking products that reflect a comprehensive consciousness of the environment, which includes the vessel it’s packaged in,” says Owen Schultz, vice president of business development at Earth Renewable Technologies. “Our product is a versatile plant- and mineral-based solution for brands looking to meet the demands of end-users with packaging options that respect our resources and protect our earth, at a cost that may be comparable to what they are using now.”

According to the supplier, EarthBottles are made using plant- and mineral-based materials and contain no fossil fuel ingredients. They are BPA-free and contain no phthalates. The company supports non-GMO sustainable farming practices, ensuring each acre of feedstock used is offset. 

Currently, EarthBottles can be made in almost any shape or size, and custom colors can be developed. These bottles are not yet being used for any beauty/personal care products, but Schultz believes the product will perform well in this category. The bottles can have labels attached, or can be printed on. Caps can also be made using the company’s bio-polymer.

Interest in PCR (post-consumer resin) PET plastics jars has increased at SKS Bottle & Packaging. The supplier recently launched black PCR PET straight sided jars with black smooth caps, which Mary Seaman, assistant marketing manager, says can be used for a range of industries, including beauty. “The advantage of this line,” she explains, “is that it offers several sizes—so for cosmetics, for example, you could easily suit your entire product line from eye shadows to powders in any one of the sizes.” These jars are PCR PET, made from 100% post consumer resin.
“The leading request we’ve heard from our customers is to offer more options in recycled and renewable products,” says Seaman. Currently, she says, “We sell five materials that are ‘environmentally friendly’—paperboard, glass, PCR (Post Consumer Resin) plastic consisting of a blend of recycled resins, PIR (Post-Industrial Resin) polypropylene plastic made from 100% recycled material and PLA (Polymerized Lactic Acid) plastic made entirely from corn or sugarcane. Within those materials we have dozens of different product options (i.e., tubs and jars, tubes and bottles), but still this is not enough for customer demand. We are looking to increase stock of these materials and to offer an increased variety of sizes and shapes.” 

Material reduction can also be an effective “green” option when it comes to plastic jars. One of Quadpack’s most recent additions to its standard pack catalog offers reduced content without compromising aesthetics. The newly launched 50ml acrylic jar from the Q-Line family offers a premium-look container but with thinner walls (6.5mm instead of the usual 10mm). David Reguill, skin care category manager, Quadpack Group, says the look and performance are identical to a standard luxury jar, with the combined benefit of a lower price tag and reduced environmental impact.

Quadpack also offers products that allow cosmetic brands to choose the percentage of recycled content. The Eco Foamer from Quadpack’s Q-Line range, for example, comes with a choice of 50 or 100% recycled PET, topped with a high-end foam pump from Korean manufacturer Apollo.

Reguill says recycled plastics used for beauty packaging typically come from used water bottles. The recycling process produces a yellowish tinge to the material, so the greater the recycled content, the more pronounced the effect. However, Reguill  says, “Quadpack’s decoration service renders this unnoticeable. In fact, rPET can be color-matched to meet the most sophisticated brand requirements.”

Recyclable Tubes

The use of tubes—of various types—in the beauty industry has grown by leaps and bounds in the past couple of years, and great progress has been made in this package option as far as environmentally responsible materials and processes—making them even more desirable.

Caraballo says Essel Propack receives increasing requests for tubes that are either made with recycled material, or can be easily recycled by the consumer. To meet this request, they launched a laminate structure called Green Maple Leaf that is 100% recyclable and can be recycled under code 4, and still prevents the oxidization of the product inside with specially developed barrier properties. “It is also more cost-effective,” according to Caraballo, “because we make the laminate in-house so we don’t have to rely on other suppliers. It can also be decorated just like any other laminate tube.”

Suppliers and brands have also gotten creative with offering sustainable benefits, which is the case with a recent project accomplished through Essel Propack working with their customer Tom’s of Maine.

Caraballo explains. “One interesting thing we do is partner up with Tom’s of Maine to reuse all of their scrap material that accumulates during the tube printing process. They use a third party company called TerraCycle that takes the Tom’s of Maine printed scrap and turns it into colorful tote bags that are sold in specialty grocery stores.
Paperboard Policies

At Chicago Paper Tube & Can Company, the company’s policies and practices align with the materials they use. “We’re fortunate in that our operation is very clean—paper and non-toxic water-based glues are our two chief raw materials, and almost everything we use is sourced locally [in the Midwest],” explains Dudlak. He adds: “Buyers are also still very interested in third-party evaluations, and are more inclined to approve vendors with these types of approvals, so we’re also going through FSC certification right now.”

Dudlak says the most common request they receive is for high recycled fiber content in the package and label, and people displaying those numbers on their outer labels. “Our container board is 100% recycled and has been for some time,” he says, “but we have had more folks using 100% recycled printing stocks on the exterior as more products hit the marketplace and the costs are reasonable.”

Chicago Paper Tube’s EcoPush package is an all-paperboard dispenser for balms and oil-based products, developed to completely replace traditional plastic alternatives. Dudlak says, “We use a special all-paperboard liner on the interior so that the product can be filled hot or cold, then dispensed as needed by pushing up on the bottom of the package.” He explains that it can be fully custom-printed and made from 100% recycled paperboard, and says customers have been using it for a wide range of applications, including lip balms, sunscreens, solid perfumes and skin treatments.

Customers’ questions regarding certifications and supply chain have also increased at RockTenn, where Kimbrough says, “A key request from RockTenn customers is to quantify the value of the packaging we provide to them—from the standpoint of cost, performance and reduced environmental impact. We take a supply chain approach to identify opportunities to reduce total costs and environmental impact—from  material selection and designing right-sized packaging, to optimizing production processes and freight scenarios, to investigating end-of-life options for packaging.”

Kimbrough says that they are also continuing to see requests from customers to better understand forestry certifications and the benefits associated with having their suppliers’ manufacturing processes externally verified.

At SKS, Seaman says they are fielding more requests for their paperboard tubes and jars. One of the newest products SKS offers is its “100% green” paperboard push-tubes and jars, made from 100% paperboard cardboard and completely biodegradable. She adds: “They are one of our most popular social media recognized products as well.”

Premium Packaging Papers

Packaging papers is another area that has seen great strides as far as environmentally responsible products—and again, certifications carry weight with customers.

The commitment at Neenah Packaging is to make it easier for customers to make smarter environmental choices, according to Sng. “We do that by continuing to expand our portfolio of environmental packaging papers and by specifically focusing on growing our FSC-certified portfolio to support well-managed forests and the responsible use of forest resources.” He says,  “At the end of the day, we all want to accomplish the same thing: To create a package that has that wow factor and supports solid sustainable practices.”

Neenah provides clients with an Environmental Calculator to track savings pertaining to the use of post consumer recycled fiber, and to inform decision-making. This simple, five-step process shows resources not used: wood/trees, water, energy, solid waste and emissions. The result is a quantified environmental impact audit report. “Small changes add up,” says Sng.

Neenah recently worked with husband and wife duo, Michael and Melissa Fensterstock, who created a luxury lifestyle company, Aromaflage, founded on a commitment to healthy living. They wanted the packaging of their distinct line of functional botanicals—based on an ancient tradition of using essential oils and natural fragrances to also shield themselves from insects—to reflect that.

  Looking for Lipstick container?

The founders sought a luxury look, feel and immediate brand recognition in the beauty space. Their fragrances are set up in fine European glass, and every item is placed in a custom, collectible pouch bearing their distinct dragonfly logo (and scorpion for their new fragrance, Wild). This thoughtful design decision eliminated the need for extra cardboard to reinforce the fragrance box and significantly reduced their environmental footprint. “There is no inner garbage,” says cofounder Michael Fensterstock.

Not only does this solution provide shelter for the bottles, it also enhances product recognition. For the all-important outer package, which competes for precious shelf space with well-known luxe fragrances, Aromaflage exclusively uses Neenah Classic Crest Natural (White Eggshell, 130#) for its fragrances with elegant gold foil stamping. “We fell in love with the high-touch of Neenah’s textures and this rich creamy white. The papers are FSC certified, from forest to finishing, and the entire box is fully recyclable,” says Fensterstock. The cofounders also made the decision not to offset print on the box, eliminating an unnecessary press run.  

Evaluating Labels

Labels have undergone a great deal of scrutiny when it comes to sustainable packaging, from the amount of glue used, to the weight of the material. And cutbacks here can make an overall improvement in sustainable choices.

According to Avery Dennison’s Bandy, “Many [customers] don’t realize, until we show them our Greenprint tool, that the choice of a label can make a significant impact. For example, they may not realize how much water, energy, greenhouse gases and solid waste can really be decreased through a focused effort.” A good example, says Bandy, is work they’ve done with L’Oréal Americas. “We worked together, using Greenprint, to show how thinner label materials can reduce environmental impacts,” she explains. By switching from Avery Dennison’s global co-ex film product to Avery Dennison’s global MDO film labels, L’ Oréal has reduced environmental impacts from 7% to 19% across the categories of fossil material, water use, energy use, GHG emissions and solid waste.

David Wolbach, assistant vice president, packaging hair, L’Oréal Americas, says: “We strongly believe in a sustainable supply chain, and this is ingrained in our business practices. However, to achieve the ultimate goal of reduced-impact materials, we cannot work alone. It is essential that all facets of the value chain—material suppliers, printers, consumers, and recyclers—collaborate together to establish a clear and transparent low-impact product stream globally.”

Bandy says Avery Dennison is currently receiving two major requests from customers. The first concerns paper sourcing. She says, “Because of the issues of deforestation in the world and the cutting down of old growth forests and the impacts those make on biodiversity and ecosystems for animals, people want to know that the paper they are buying is certifiably sustainable.” Avery Dennison supports the North American Forestry Stewardship Council (FSC) initiative, which is dedicated to responsible forestry.

The second  inquiry concerns how a label will impact the recyclability of a container. Bandy says, “There has been significant discussion about how shrink sleeves negatively impact recycling, and brands are getting savvier to that notion—‘will the consumer be able to recycle my product?’”  To address recycling, Avery Dennison has expanded its CleanFlake portfolio, developed to enhance the recyclability of PET containers (the No. 1 plastic in use). It features a clear or white film face stock anchored by a switchable adhesive that adheres to a PET bottle until the adhesive bond is broken at the recycling facility. This, explains Bandy, allows the face stock and adhesive to cleanly separate from the PET flake. The result is in pure PET flakes, the conservation of PET resources and less landfill waste.

Best Eco Practices

Corporate practices relating to the whole supply chain also come into play.

Virospack’s Milne says: “The larger customers inquire if Virospack is taking responsible steps and following respectful environment initiatives such as CO2 emissions reduction, recycling, materials and use of internal packaging (trays, cartons)—the sustainability going through the whole supply chain, or they request sustainable practice reports as part of supplier certification.”

Some clients are starting to keep scorecards for sustainable business and manufacturing practices, according to Decotech’s Engel. “After all,” he says, “what good does it do if a 100% recyclable product was produced in a way that does so much harm to the environment? In this respect, Decotech’s Zero-Waste-to-Landfill and Waste-to-Energy programs, among other sustainability initiatives, are exactly what many of our clients are looking for.”

At the end of last year, Decotech completely phased out of traditional acid-etch frosting and replaced it with a much friendlier and sustainable water-based spray frosting process that Engel says has been well received by their clients.

SGD’s Chamlou says changes in production practices have favorably impacted the supplier’s carbon footprint.

“For each 1 million 200g glass bottles made using our new [Infinite glass] formula, we estimate that carbon dioxide emissions and energy consumption are each reduced by approximately 13%, while 34 tons of sand are saved along with 1.7 tons of limestone, which would have been used in our classical extra-clear glass,” explains Chamlou. SGD also offers a range of eco-friendly finishing decorating options including water-based lacquers, etching with zero effluent discharge, and organic and UV silkscreen inks.

According to Chamlou, SGD also “takes care to maintain the most eco-friendly production possible during standard production procedures.” She says, “Our water treatment plant in Covington, GA removes harmful properties of our wastewater so that it can be safely discharged into the environment. Furthermore, we recycle 100% of all flint glass waste, and have recently launched a program aiming to reduce consumption of water by 20% in our bare glass and decoration facilities.”

The Future of Sustainable Packaging

Where does most of the promise lie in terms of the future of packaging in the beauty world—and elsewhere?

In keeping with William McDonough’s view, Bandy says, “We are moving toward a circular economy in which packaging is designed for re-use so that we can decrease the amount of virgin materials extracted or used. It means using recycled content wherever possible.” She adds: “We are always striving for continuous improvement when it comes to sustainability and environmental issues.”

Sustainable practices may become part of more brands’ DNA.

At Decotech, Engel says, “There is not, and will not be, one prevalent measure of sustainable manufacturing practices in the future. It will instead be part of the cultural DNA of a company so that the question of environmental impact is discussed at every stage.” He adds that Decotech, an ISO 14001:2004 certified company, has incorporated the environmental question into their daily business routines. 

Pricing may not play such a critical role when making packaging choices.

“In the future, it would be nice to see sustainable packaging as the mainstream packaging source,” says Seaman of SKS. “Currently if you have two jars of the same beauty product on the shelf, the jar in sustainable packaging will cost a little more than the jar of virgin packaging, and most consumers will choose the cheaper of the two. However, a vision for the future may not have these options. Regardless of price, all plastic containers will be made from sustainable packaging.”

Finding suitable material replacements will be key to meaningful change.

Chicago Paper Tube’s Dudlak says, “At the moment people still seem to rely a great deal on third-party certifications and recycled content as a measure of how ‘green’ a package is. But this doesn’t tell the whole story, and sometimes packaging that is terribly unhealthy for the environment can still claim eco-friendliness for, say, a marginal reduction in usage of plastic or slightly smaller carbon footprint. Going forward, people will be more sensitive to the real-world impact of any packaging, and more significant gains than these will be a necessity. The challenge will be to phase out some of today’s most versatile but least responsible materials by finding suitable replacements that don’t require very specific handling and recycling procedures (which are not always available to all consumers) to be environmentally sound. Some great alternative designs are out there already, but ultimately people have to be willing to accept some less convenient and/or more expensive packaging in the interest of preserving the Earth. In a current culture so built around convenience, it’s a very tall order, but I think it will eventually be a requirement.”

Overall, Quadpack’s Reguill, says, “Ethical and environmental audits are an increasing requirement of multinationals when selecting their suppliers. They, in turn, are being driven by consumer demand for earth-friendly products and fair and sustainable practices. Step by step, the beauty industry is becoming a market where environmental needs and commercial goals are converging. And that is good news for everyone—including the planet.” 

Refilling: Thierry Mugler Unveils Angel—‘The New Star’

Thierry Mugler’s 75ml refillable fragrance, Angel—“The New Star” Eau de Parfum ($150), pays homage to fine glassmaking. This three-dimensional star captures light with its countless facets, creating unprecedented surprise effects. Bringing this product to life required a highly technical know-how and cutting edge technology to achieve its complex geometry and balanced design.
Virginie Delpeuc’h and Stéphane Calvi, artistic directors, Thierry Mugler—and designers of The New Star, say: “At Mugler, we don’t talk in terms of bottle design; we work around the idea of an object that tells a story. Above all, a Mugler bottle is imagined and designed like a sculpture. We wanted a star that would pay tribute to the celestial dimension of Angel, one that would free itself from the laws of gravity. This star belongs in the sky; this is why it has not been designed with a specific ‘bottom.’ It can be placed on any of its facets…The numerous facets of this star are like the reflections and many facets of the feminine persona.”

All Angel stars can be filled again at the Parfums Mugler Source or using the line’s Eco-Source refill. Part of the Mugler brand’s eco-responsible approach, this simple act gives new value to the bottle and enhances its aesthetic dimension. It also promotes a special relationship between the customer and beauty advisor at the point of sale. Unlike discarding the bottle or purchasing an identical one, refilling gives the precious bottle new life.

MuLondon’s Packaging Reflects Its Eco-Friendly DNA

Respect for the environment is in MuLondon’s DNA, says Boris Zatezic, founder and ‘head cream-whipper.’ The jars used for MuLondon’s multitasking moisturizers are made from glass, and the brand does not use any outer cartons for their products. Zatezic says, “Although at times challenging, more expensive and heavier, I love using glass and it’s a completely inert and natural material. It preserves the contents of MuLondon moisturizers without reacting with the oil-based product.”

The jars’ lids are made of aluminum, with a brushed steel-look finish. The product is a proprietary blend of highly stable natural vegetable oils, herbal extracts and flower essences, which work together to naturally extend the shelf life of the product—and the water-free formula is not prone to degradation.

Zatezic says, “I love using the transparent glass material so that our customers can see the natural variation in the color of the moisturizers, which vary depending on the natural herbal extracts used.”

For MuLondon’s foaming facial cleansers, Zatezic chose a plastic bottle with a self-foaming pump and a frosted white cap. Cleanser bottles are fully recyclable HDPE plastic, and are free from phthalates, bisphenol-A and PVC.

Product labels for the moisturizers are printed on glossy photo-quality paper, while the cleansers have a water-resistant plastic label that is laminated. Zatezic is looking at printing the labels on laminated material, to provide extra protection.

In addition, Zatezic uses only biodegradable bubble wrap to protect the items in transit, and recycles packaging boxes and other materials from suppliers. Products ship in boxes that are appropriately sized for each individual order.

Aveda Packaging Combines PCR with Bioplastic

Aveda, known for setting an example for environmental leadership and responsibility in the beauty industry, says it is now the first beauty company to combine PCR and bioplastic in a plastic tube. Aveda uses 100% post-consumer recycled (PCR) material as often as possible, but when this is not an option, the brand has started to combine PCR with bioplastic to use less virgin petrochemical plastic.  This new packaging has launched with the Aveda Dry Remedy moisturizing conditioner and moisturizing masque tubes.

Mike Kennedy, vice president of package development, Aveda, says, “I am thrilled that we have embarked on the next phase of environmental packaging, and are moving toward making the majority of Aveda product containers using minimal virgin petrochemical plastics.” He adds, “After years of research and testing, Aveda has two of the best possible developments for product containers available: 100% PCR in HDPE retail bottles and now this breakthrough PCR and bioplastic combined technology which we’re starting to use for tubes.”

The bioplastic that Aveda uses is made primarily from sugarcane ethanol, a sustainable and quickly renewable resource. (For more about bioplastic, visit Braskem.com.)
Aveda says it is proud to have been the first beauty company using 100% post-consumer recycled PET. Now, more than 85% of its skin and hair styling PET bottles and jars contain 100% PCR materials. They say they also forego cartons whenever possible and never add elements solely for the sake of aesthetics.

“Aveda minimizes packaging as much as possible while adhering to strict quality and environmental standards,” says Dave Rappaport, VP of earth and community care, for the brand. “With every package we develop, we’re mindful of our environmental footprint and work to minimize packaging and maximize our use of recyclable and post-consumer recycled materials.”