2016-07-04 17:03:39
Color Cosmetics Packaging Shifts Into High Gear
2016-07-04 17:03:39
Over the last few years, the makeup category has picked up speed, overtaking long-time frontrunner skin care. Not surprising, much of the movement tracks to the Millennial consumer who is more interested in the instant results provided by color cosmetics than the elusive promises of anti-aging formulas, especially when it comes to posting selfies. Brands are fueling increased demand with multitudes of new launches, and signing youthful celebrity “faces” in attempts to attract attention and make a greater social media splash.
Last month alone, within a day of one another, came major announcements from four of the beauty industry’s leading global brands: Estée Lauder, LVMH, CoverGirl and Shiseido.
Estée Lauder partnered with style icon and fashion designer, Victoria Beckham (with 10 million Twitter fans), for a limited-edition makeup collection to be named VBxEsteeLauder. The range is scheduled to reach select retailers around the world this September.
The move follows the reveal earlier this year of the Estée Edit skin care and color cosmetics collection, aimed at Millennials and created in connection with Kendall Jenner (17 million Twitter followers). Product packaging for the 82 SKUs sold at Sephora highlights Estée Lauder’s iconic blue color, but it’s been modernized for a youthful demographic, with a cobalt paint splatter design on secondary packaging and compacts.
In sync with the Beckham deal, LVMH’s Kendo division signed superstar Rihanna (who boasts more than 60 million Twitter followers) to partner on a makeup collection called Fenty Beauty, targeted for Fall 2017.
Right on the heels of these celebrity deals, singer Katy Perry (who tops the Twitter charts with 87 million followers) disclosed news of her upcoming mass-market color cosmetics line for CoverGirl in July. The collection will focus on lipsticks and mascaras.
And Shiseido Americas brought on ex-Coty executive Jill Scalamandre to head up a new research division called Global Makeup Center of Excellence, located in the company’s New York headquarters. At the top of Scalamandre’s to-do list will be expanding the color cosmetics business across the company’s brands, including Shiseido, Bare Escentuals, Francois Nars, Clé de Peau Beauté and Buxom, a Shiseido brand sold in Sephora.
Color Shifts Into High Gear
It’s no wonder that launch activity and the role of persuasive spokespeople are so prevalent. Research shows the Color Cosmetics market is poised for sizable global growth—and competition is fierce.
According to a new report from Research and Markets, “Color Cosmetics Market by Target Market, by Application and Geography—Regional Trends & Forecasts to 2020,” the global color cosmetics market is estimated to reach approximately $77 billion by 2020.
Demand is expected to be especially active in lip, facial makeup, nail and eye products. Multi-benefit products are driving the market by providing additional benefits such as anti-aging
and UV protection.
The research firm notes: “This industry is highly dynamic, which demands product differentiation, and the manufacturers experiment with new textures and formats to survive in the competitive market.”
North America and Europe are the leading regions for the consumption of color cosmetics, according to Research and Markets. However, Europe and Asia-Pacific are projected to have the strongest usage and dominate the color cosmetics market by 2020. The U.S. holds the largest share in the North American market while France leads in Europe.
Connecting Package and Product
Along with the demand for Color Cosmetics comes a greater emphasis on the packaging, which industry experts agree plays an important role in which products consumers choose—both in open-sell retail outlets and online.
Karen Grant, vice president, NPD Beauty—and a member of Beauty Packaging’s Board of Advisors, confirms, “Packaging and color cosmetics go ‘hand in glove.’ “ She says makeup is the primary fashion category in beauty, adding, “In addition to new color collections and product offerings, it is often the packaging that first entices the consumer and tells the fashion story.”
Based on NPD’s research on makeup shopping habits, when asked how they like to shop for products, Grant says the No. 1 reason stated by consumers relates to their desire to self-discover by “self-testing without pressure.” Thus, open-sell environments—such as Sephora—are raising the bar on packaging. Grant says, “As consumers increasingly want the freedom to roam and make self-directed choices, packaging that calls attention and distinguishes a brand becomes more vital.”
According to The NPD Group, in 2015, when counting shade introductions, new prestige makeup products generated $920 million dollars—almost $1 billion in new makeup offerings. Grant notes, “Top artist brands like MAC as well as newer, once considered ‘indie’ brands like Urban Decay, Benefit and Anastasia have deftly used clean and bold as well as graphic, playful and innovative packaging to take their brands into the top 10 prestige makeup brands ranking nationally.”
Grant ties the role of creative packaging to sales in the category. She says, “Helping boost face product sales to lead growth in makeup for the first time in years, within the top 20 prestige makeup brands, standouts like Tarte, Too Faced Cosmetics, Nars, Smashbox and IT Cosmetics are using packaging to attract consumers and also build new or once dormant product categories such as color correctors and new shade and format/texture options in foundations, primers and concealers.”
Packaging for Smashbox
For a closer look at the philosophy and intent behind product development and the role of packaging at one of the hottest prestige makeup brands, we turned to Jill Tomandl, vice president product development and innovation, at frontrunner Smashbox.
Overall, she tells Beauty Packaging, “Smashbox focuses on the package to provide a unique point of difference to the consumer experience.” Since Smashbox is a pro-artistry brand born in a photography studio, she says that it is important that products perform and apply conveniently on set and in the customer’s everyday life.
The Smashbox core line packaging, explains Tomandl, is “sleek, chic, matte black with clean lines and square silhouettes.” Every holiday season, Smashbox partners with an artist to create visually impactful packaging.
Tomandl says packaging can play a number of influential roles in gaining consumer attention—and satisfaction.
In one example, she says it can solve a problem, such as with the brand’s Always Sharp Eyeliner and Lip Liner, which self-sharpens when you open the cap, so you never have a dull pencil for application.
Portability has become increasingly important in an always on-the-go life style, and Tomandl explains that Smashbox Master Class has snap-out platforms that become lightweight, portable compacts. Smashbox Photo Finish Primers are sold in lightweight, portable tubes.
Another key trend that’s exploded over the last few years is providing tutorials, so consumers know exactly how to use the products they’re buying for the best effects. The Smashbox Contour Palette therefore has a cling with an instructional face chart on the compact mirror.
Of course Color Cosmetics provide some of the best “beauty eye candy around”—ensuring consumer attraction through design. In this case, Tomandl illustrates the effect with the Smashbox X-Rated Mascara package—a twisted rectangle with a unique design.
Convenient application is also a huge draw when it comes to makeup, and the Smashbox CC Concealer has a cone-shaped applicator for precision application on spots. Smashbox Primer Oil and BB Water have push button droppers for ease of application, and wipers to reduce messiness.
In addition to convenience, consumers are also looking for speed and efficiency when shopping to build their color wardrobes. Here, Tomandl says, “Color-matched components help the consumer find the shade they are looking for in an open-sell environment.”
Creating Mobile Connections
While printed and numbered cosmetic application instructions have become a commonplace essential, some brands are literally connecting with consumers, especially Millennials, on their mobile devices, to provide live demonstrations. The Smashbox ShapeMatters Palette, for instance, contains Get the Look cards printed with conductive ink. Users can connect toSmashbox.com/ShapeMattersPalette, place the card on their phone and be directly connected to demo videos for Brow, Contour, Highlight and Shadow applications. There is also a face chart on each card for quick reference.
On the supplier side, Keith Everson, president and CEO of SussexIM, says they are also engaged in connecting with consumers on their mobile devices, and have developed new ways to provide eye-popping compacts and product authentication at the same time.
He explains: “As a group, Millennials are drawn to packaging for color cosmetics that is interactive, looks great on the shelf and delivers a special or ‘individualized’ experience.” In addition, he says, “Our customers want to build their brand cost-efficiently, draw their consumers into the brand essence—and prevent counterfeiting, thus preserving brand integrity.”
To meet this two-pronged challenge, SussexIM created a digital solution that Everson says is “baked into the cake.” The company brought in-mold labeling and digital watermarking together—even using engineered resins, such as ABS. It is actually part of the cosmetic compact, or case. “This,” he says, “opens new options in decorating, high levels of product security, and fosters brand engagement with the Millennials—a group that lives with their smart phones.” He says it’s a cost-effective, fast-turnaround solution that looks great, engages the consumer and builds brands.
The technology allows brand owners to create a curated, end-to-end sales consumer experience, according to Everson. From pre-store consumer research, to the store or kiosk, to instantly accessing product info, demos and coupons, the consumer can share product info across social media platforms.
Packaging Distinction
According to Grant, the two channels driving much of prestige beauty growth are specialty stores and the internet—“both channels where packaging distinction is critical.” She says specialty stores, the arena where consumers are most free to experiment and play, attract younger shoppers under 25, established shoppers earning over $75K per year, and Hispanic beauty shoppers. In this environment, prestige beauty grew in 2015 by +13%; but the online prestige makeup channel grew almost 3X as fast, up +36%. Grant credits distinctive packaging for driving the growth of both.
Lou Della Pesca, president of 3C Inc, a cosmetic packaging supplier, says, “The in-store or online customer is influenced by the brand and by the message, followed by the attractiveness of the package.” He says the brand’s intent is to advise a consumer of the latest fashion color, latest design of the container and latest advantage of their product, while reducing the number of containers necessary to achieve the ultimate goal of the products.
Social media also plays a role in color cosmetics packaging, including consumers’ growing interest in cool and beautiful componentry that they can show off in their online posts as well as in their purses.
Susanne Nichols, CEO, ICS, says, “Consumers are influenced not only by how functional the packaging is, but also want it to be visually appealing so it suits their lifestyle, color and shape preferences.”
Experience, too, factors in. Tiffany Simms, director of sales, Cosmopak, says, “Packaging really has to be eye-catching and attract the consumer to have a desire to have an experience with the product. Today, the packaging of cosmetics is having a greater experience in the end user’s life, by being featured on their Instagram, Snapchat and Facebook. The end user is looking for a package that is attractive and functional, but also has a level of prestige that can be perceived by their friends, family and followers on social media.”
Ultimately, says Simms, “The packaging is seen as an accessory to the consumer’s lifestyle, and the brands that recognize this are encouraging their consumers to continue the interaction with the products on social media.”
The packaging comes into play in both a tactile and visual way, depending on the channel. AtRoberts Container, Kristen O’Connell, director of marketing & product development, says that packaging look and feel are greatly important in the retail store, where the consumer has the opportunity to see, touch and feel the product “which is incredibly influential in the buying process.”
She says online presence is becoming equally important as “we see more and more e-tailers carrying many different product lines. If the consumer is seeking out a new mascara on a non-brand owned website, the product’s presence is reduced to a thumbnail in a sea of other thumbnails, so it has to have thumbnail appeal to get the user to click on the product and learn more.” She says this is one of the reasons that so many brands are turning to more colorful and “poppy” decoration techniques.
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Layer On the Extras
With the increased demand for packaging that stands out on-shelf and on e-retailer sites—as well as on social media—beauty packaging suppliers say requests for decorative techniques, distinct shapes, bold colors and cool applicators have taken on new dimension.
Della Pesca, of 3C Inc, says: “I see the trend continuing in adding more color decoration to all containers.”
Grace Chiu, managing director, GCC, tells Beauty Packaging, “As for decoration, working with illustrators and artists on limited editions has not ceased in the past two years. Consumers want to see more ‘wow’ and surprises on sales counters.”
When it comes to solid colors, some brands have stepped that up a notch, too, and are changing their traditional color choices. Simms of Cosmopak, says, “Gunmetal and bronze colors are very popular, as brands seem to be moving away from black packaging.”
At ICS, Nichols says matte finishes are increasing over metallized and shiny ones. She also notes that shade identification on packaging continues to grow.
At SeaCliff Beauty Packaging & Laboratories, Vonda Simon, tells Beauty Packaging: “The trends I see are going toward themes such as vacation spots or smells, and lots and lots of textures, too.”
Texture has been established as a key eye-catcher—and a draw for consumers to reach out and touch, often the first step towards a sale. The desired results depend on the machine being used—and the customized effects. Sometimes experimentation leads to a new effect.
Tony Denning, president, Tapematic USA, Inc., explains that the requirement from a machine manufacturing perspective is always changing. For the Tapematic machines (digital printing—CPrint/TPrint and 3D coating and sputtering—PST Line), each machine is customized to a certain extent for each customer. “We are always being asked if our machine could do this or that, so we experiment and in doing so develop either new coating effects or printing effects. When we combine more than one technology, we get some really interesting results such as digital embossing,” explains Denning.
He says digital embossing allows a “standard” item, such as a closure to take on a different look just by changing an artwork file. “This allows for small runs (using the same closure), but getting different results without the need to re-tool molding machines.”
Denning says if the product has some form of texture such as digital embossing, it makes the item ‘feel’ more ‘exclusive’ than a standard item.
Jean Paul Corbeil, managing director of Corpack GmbH, agrees on the uptick in customization/semi-customization. He tells Beauty Packaging: “We see a trend toward custom design or ‘customized standards.’ While sharp-cornered round and square shapes are generally more in demand, customers are showing tendencies more so now than in the past eight years of wanting to move away from standard packaging.” He says brands are seeking ways to differentiate themselves from the competition, by adding a special physical feature or attribute (i.e., de- or embossing) or by designing something totally new.
Switching Up the Packaging Styles
Another way to gain interest, especially in-store, is to surprise the consumer in some way, such as by offering a product with an unexpected applicator or filling a product in unconventional packaging for its category.
Like Corbeil, Nichols of ICS, says, “Square packaging is a growing trend across all categories.” But, in addition, she says, “Slimmer, taller and leaner is a major trend we are seeing for cosmetic packaging, whether for mascara, lipgloss or eyeliner.”
Pencils also continue to grow in popularity, says Nichols, “expanding into other product categories beyond eyes and lips, such as into the face category.” She says extra large chubbies, like ICS’s GIGA chubby, which has a 22mmD godet, are a perfect option for face sticks including contouring, highlighting and strobing.
Often, it’s the development of new formulations that drive a change in packaging.
Cosmopak is seeing increased interest in packaging for liquid lip products: “Currently, liquid lip colors are big, so we are getting requests for thick-walled vials and more creative doe foot applicators,” Simms says.
Steven Peters, sales manager at UA Packaging, says, “Recently we are seeing requests for color cosmetics packaging that is mostly driven by formula innovations.” For example, he explains that new formulas for eye shadow and concealer “allow for more diverse use of packaging. The way this diversification happens is that we see packaging traditionally used for skin care finding a larger presence for the use of color cosmetics as well.”
He says it’s becoming more common to see eye shadow filled in jars, and concealers in bottles with pumps. This trend, says Peters, “enables a landscape of new packaging styles introduced on color cosmetics shelves.” The bonus: “This growing exploration of more variance in color cosmetics packaging makes the buying process more interesting for the consumer.”
Ultimately, Peters says that combining a new formula with a different type of packaging gives the consumer a stronger urge to try it. He says, “Consumers look at product value when purchasing a product, and innovation is what enhances this. Consumers are inclined, especially in store, to try out a product with packaging that requires a different way to apply, open or use it.”
As an example, UA’s PETG jar, which has traditionally been used for various creams, has now become popular for housing eye shadow.
Multifunctional Solutions
Sales of palettes that offer complete solutions in one package, and multifunctional containers, remains strong.
Chiu, of GCC, tells Beauty Packaging, “I see packaging for color cosmetics as still much more about the palette this year.”
The trend for multifunctional packages holds true for dual containers as well as extensive palettes. Della Pesca of 3C Inc, notes that inserts that held one color of one product are now being used for a second product. “We have seen a heavy concentration of eye and brow products being assembled in a dual container,” he says. Della Pesca has also noticed the addition of magnetic closures to lipstick cases, compacts and palettes “as the latest change in components.”
SeaCliff Packaging recently produced a three-well contour, blush and highlighter palette for True Fiction Cosmetics. It’s packaged in a cardboard custom cut package along with a full-face diagram on the back of the palette describing ‘how to use’ the product. Simon explains, “The difference with this product was giving the customer just enough product to contour and highlight along with a blush for a touch of color.” The kit has three steps and is called Contour Kit/Kit Contour.
Lindsey Scott, COO, True Fiction Cosmetics, says they chose this package because, “More and more, contour and highlight are becoming an integral part of everyday makeup routines. We wanted to create a custom contour palette that incorporated contour, highlight and blush for the novice to professional consumer. By using a lightweight paperboard component, we were able to achieve a purse-friendly on-the-go option for the contour game. Thanks to SeaCliff we were able to produce a product that not only offers professional quality, but is conveniently packaged to withstand the wear and tear of the busy lives of today’s consumers.”
An Eye on Sustainability
In some cases, cosmetics packaging is being influenced by another interest of Millennials: sustainability. Alternative materials such as paperboard and refillable compacts are a couple of the solutions gaining popularity.
ICS recently launched their IoPP award-winning, patent pending, modular refillable palette in August 2015 for Butter London’s Shadow Clutch product line.
Nichols says refillable and mix-and-match is a growing trend. The palette ICS developed has a sliding feature, which she says eliminates the need to “pop out” the pans, which can sometimes cause breakage.
Butter London president Sarina Godin, says, “ICS was able to interpret our needs and develop this amazing, innovative package that allows our customers to play and experiment with our eye shadows, having all the shades they need at their fingertips. The unique customizable aspect has been extremely well received by customers and gives them flexibility to build their own palette.”
The design offers easy and intuitive use. A hinged base frame secures the refillable pans and presents a clean appearance. The simple design allows for various pan sizes and means the user can confidently refill the compact without damaging the makeup. In addition, the cover insert allows customizable etched designs, which means the palette look can evolve, adding and changing cover-etching designs as the trends and product line advances. Not only does the refillable pack benefit end users, according to Nichols, but it also saves waste and excess packaging, making it an environmentally friendly option that is convenient, flexible and elegant all at the same time.
A refillable package was also well executed at Corpack, where Corbeil says, “Customers are becoming more and more conscientious about the impact of packaging on the environment. If you can make the customer feel better about their purchases and usage of resources, then you can add value to your product and win them over.”
Corpack recently designed, produced and delivered a new compact powder case for their long-standing customer Artdeco, who wanted a more modern look and appeal, as well as a refillable solution. “The difference to the competition,” says Corbeil, “is that the Artdeco compact is an esthetically beautiful package (custom design) that minimizes the use of materials and can be refilled.
At Cosmopak, Simms says, “We are also seeing more and more brands getting stricter on what types of materials they will use in their packaging, as there is a bigger demand for eco-friendly packaging and sourcing alternatives to typical plastics.”
Around the Bend
As packaging for the makeup category picks up speed, and sustainability turns toward a more mainstream course, it will be fascinating to watch how consumers, brands and suppliers navigate the intersection.
Here are a few of the season’s standouts:
Jane Iredale’s Skin Is In collection exemplifies the current “no makeup makeup” trend with accessory-like components to boot.
Studio 10’s new Plumping Blush Glow-plexion highlights a unique creamy formula that blends into skin for an ultra-natural finish—and a ‘no makeup makeup’ look. Conveniently packaged in a pump bottle, it’s easy to use and completely mess-free. Use with the Double End Face Brush: The finger-shaped end provides precision application, and the “stippling” end buffs into the skin.
Diorskin Nude Air ‘Glowing Gardens’ Illuminating Powder blooms in a luxe compact with a motif resembling the distinctive cannage quilting of the designer’s leather bags.
Chantecaille’s Spring 2016 collection features the refillable Le Magnolia Eye and Cheek Palette, created to increase awareness of work to improve the outlook for wild plant species and the livelihoods of people around the world through supporting the widespread adoption of the FairWild Standard. Embossed with a magnolia flower, the limited edition shades complement the delicate watercolor hues seen on the Spring 2016 runways.
MAC Cosmetics’ new Good Luck Trolls collection, a collaboration with Dreamworks’ upcoming film, flashes back to the neon-colored-hair dolls. Products include yellow, blue and green eyeshadow and lipgloss with glitter—all in colorful packaging that features pink and purple compacts decorated with vivid labels.
Show-stopping packaging for Guerlain’s Little Black Dress nail polish and lipstick collection is over-the-top irresistible. The shades are easily identifiable—and slightly scented with the namesake fragrance. The “family resemblance” featuring the upside-down heart is unmistakable.
please visit www.topbeautysh.com for more cosmetic packaging information.
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