2016-08-03 17:11:39
Cosmetics Crowd Floods MakeUp in Paris
2016-08-03 17:11:39
While walking around the show floor and speaking with exhibitors, I encountered many French participants joking about the various impediments facing the opening of this year’s edition of MakeUp in Paris, held June 10-11. The site of the annual exhibition, Carrousel de Louvre, on the lower level of the famed musée, had re-opened just two days before the show, after being closed due to the worst flooding of the Seine River to occur in 30 years. Add to that the trash strike, train strike, airline strike and the drama of the world soccer championship, and the status had seemed uncertain. Locals attending the show quipped that France likes to stay in the news in this way, that strikes represent the quintessential French reputation.
But as Sandra Maguarian, co-manager of MakeUp in Paris, told me, the outlook for the show’s opening had gone “from dark to sunlight.” The Seine began to recede, warnings were lifted and MakeUp in Paris’s organizers produced another record-breaking B2B show dedicated to the cosmetics sector.
Jean-Yves Bourgeois, co-manager of MakeUp in Paris, said this “one was one of the best MakeUp in Paris shows ever.” It attracted more than 3,500 visitors during the two days and more than 1,700 conference attendees, “figures never before reached.” He added: “All the keys for success were present, in other words a very busy, very ‘pro’ show of increasingly international scope (29% foreign visitors), a clearly not-to-be-missed occasion.”
An expanded show floor accommodated 150 exhibitors dedicated to packaging, formulations, ingredients and accessories; 30 suppliers were new to the show this year.
Nineteen session topics ranged from Opportunities in the Iranian Cosmetics Market to Sustainable Packaging and Practices. (See Online Exclusive.)
A new feature of the event, Digital Beauty, included 10 exhibitors who presented visitors with digital solutions available for the beauty industry—from easily accessible specs on products from vendors, to tools that enable consumers to play with makeup and skin care prior to making a recommended purchase customized to their specific needs.
The Perfume to Makeup exhibition, the Innovation Tree (with 28 winners out of 75 products entered and judged), and a space dedicated to sustainable development sponsored by Chanel Parfums et Beauté (see this slideshow - Makeup in Sustainable) added to the breadth and excitement of the event. Not to mention the festival energy that was created as periodic makeup parades wound their way around the show floor.
Key Trends Noted
As brands continue in their pursuit of attracting youthful consumers—as well as those looking for signs of luxury—packaging and application techniques continue to develop.
Tactile and decorative effects, in both formulation and packaging, remain popular with many 3D effects, pseudo animal skin treatments and fluorescent colors reminiscent of the 1970s. Containers with windows and transparent packaging ensure that makeup colors are easily and instantly visible.
The softness and convenience of the makeup world-changing cushion continues to expand, with cushion applicators prevailing in applications for compacts to eyes to lips.
New gestures remain important in sparking consumer interest, as do “the little things” that connote luxury packaging, such as clicks and pulls.
Masks are more popular than ever and several suppliers offered interesting solutions.
Lip products including scrubs and plumping formulations and double-duty and multi-use lip and eye products drew lots of attention.
With the rush to get to market and streamline the supply chain, more suppliers are offering full service for seamless production and delivery.
Cushiony Applications
At Taiki, Jim Perry told Beauty Packaging that in Europe and the U.S., the company had formed a partnership with Toly for a cushion compact. The Capacity-plus cushion compact incorporates Taiki’s T-engine sponge and applicator puff, designed more for the mass market. Perry said the product has attracted a lot of interest. “We’re seeing the cushion category getting bigger and bigger,” said Perry.
Albéa’s Artist Bubble had been commercialized for Givenchy’s Cushion Kiss. The tube with a super-soft cushion applicator, used for a new soft balm gloss, is also ideal for concealer, foundation or shadow blush, according to Marjorie Vincenti, communications project manager, Albéa. She said that the luxury brand had wanted to target a younger audience, and the very convenient package had provided the demographic with “great appeal” in a travel-friendly applicator for smooth and plumped lips. The decoration for Cushion Kiss features a combination of black writing and window print allowing the colors of the gloss to stand out.
An advance in cushion compact technology was news at Collcap, with the addition of a mesh ring. The product is squeezed through a mesh barrier rather than a sponge. The supplier also was showing three sizes of mesh jars for powder, which are great for on-the-go use as the powder doesn’t dispense until you press, even if it’s turned upside down. Three sizes of cushion pen applicators were offered for eyes and lips.
For more on Cushion Compacts, please see the sidebar “What’s New in Asian Packaging” in this article.
Focus on the Lips
Are Lips the new Nails? Many in the industry think so, and throughout MakeUp in Paris, suppliers were presenting formulations and packaging designed for market success. From cute and adorable to sleek and sophisticated, clever packages brought a smile to attendees’ lips.
Full-service provider Tae Sung Group, Korea, showcased lip (and mascara and skin care) packages from novelties to luxe. Lipglosses housed in miniature “wine bottles” and “wine glass” forms drew attention, as did unique formulations such as lentil bean tanning lotions and fermented snail infusion.
Her Maow International, Taiwan, offered a wide variety of packages including plastic jars in a variety of fresh colors that resembled delicious sugary French macarons. The company offers formulations and packaging and also has a brush facility.
One of the turnkey products receiving lots of attention at HCT Group’s booth was Lip Smoothie Balm, a two-step lip treatment product that is featured in the supplier’s new Double Jar component—a great on-the-go component that doesn’t sacrifice size.
You can fit two full-size lip treatment (or other) products in this package, whereas on-the-go products are usually much smaller.
The lip duo offers a micro-dermabrasion treatment for the lips that sloughs off dead skin cells on one end, and a moisturizing jelly lip coat on the other. This unique hydrating gel scrub contains both jojoba and eco-friendly mineral beads to remove dry flaky skin cells from the lip area for an ultra-smooth surface. The beads disappear upon application without leaving a gritty trace. The second step is the lip jelly, which adds a moisture barrier for a soft, glossy finish. HCT also created a Green CC Balm and Concealer duo in this jar.
At Alkos, Moonlight Kiss Flo lipstick stood out—and landed on the show’s Innovation Tree—as it is perfect for wear at discos. The bright fluorescent colors turn lips white when exposed to black light. A three-step lip program featured a trio of products to scrub, moisturize and add SPF with color.
Cosmetic contract manufacturer Onyligne Laboratoires offered formulations for lips and eyes in a variety of interesting textures. A lip balm filled in a pot had a spongy oil-rich texture as well as a scent. An eye gel with a new memory technology bounces back after each swipe. And a makeup remover offers jelly-like cleansing: The product looks like honey and changes texture when water is added.
New Gestures
Brands and consumers, alike, love to hear about new gestures in the beauty arena, and suppliers work hard to make these possible.
Derik Industrial was showing some patented items including a new airtight lipgloss with a syringe-like look and a new gesture. Twisting it up to open, explained Rick Persons, president, East Coast, Derik Industrial USA, Inc., keeps the rod clean. A lipstick with a clear laser-edge window is ideal for display on shelves, so the shopper can see the color instantly.
Pochet Makeup presented Qualipac’s One Touch, which it calls “a new gesture, an intuitive opening.” The supplier says with this feature, packaging can be designed and specially tailored to your brand based on “the new ergonomic, elegant and 100% reliable single-handed on-off opening patented mechanism,” which opens and closes with a simple click while remaining leak-proof. The feature offers packaging flexibility for fluid makeup products including gloss, mascara, eyeliner, correctors and nail varnish.
In the Blink of an Eye
At MakeUp in Paris, it was difficult to find a space to enter Alkos Group’s booth as attendees sought to ask questions about the many products available. When I got the opportunity to speak with Florence Lefeuvre, group sales, marketing and communications officer, and president and CEO Dominique Vautier, I learned about the three primary categories the company serves—makeup, skin care and soaps & sticks—and got to preview a number of products.
Lefeuvre explained that one of the many innovations at the show was focused on the Group’s mascara activity, which is a new area for Alkos. They are building their team to produce leading products and offering mascara products as full service, as “more and more, that’s what companies want,” said Lefeuvre. Curves mascara features a curved brush while Xtreme mascara boasts a specific elastomer brush that enables an eyeliner effect at the base of the lashes at the same time.
At Geka, marketing manager Julia Kiener presented “Green Glamour,” a collection based on a leading trend for spring summer 2017: Green is becoming elegant. Much of the focus at the booth was on mascara, but Geka also had a wide range of products for eyes and lips, as well as accessories and interesting packaging options.
Geka’s EndlessDEFINER mascara with a curvy, feminine shape and EOS 2K fiber provides lashes with maximum length and volume. The Endless sphere brush contains a new fiber with a triangular cross-section to prevent clumping. The cap is matte, achieved with the masterbatch, itself. A molded brush, flexiQUEEN, features a new extra soft material for volume, while the cap sports a trendy marble look. The cap for the 2K lipgloss gentleLIPS is topped with a cap made out of renewable PLA material. IntenseLINER boasts a crackle lacquering on the cap and creates a graphic eyelid line in shimmering green. All are housed in a stylish cosmetic bag along with a makeup sponge, both by Geka Accessories.
Albéa produced the new Volume Reveal mascara by Bourjois, a Coty brand. The elegant triangular bottle can stand upright; a built-in magnifying mirror can magnify three times to reveal even the tiniest lashes; and a bristled brush guarantees full lash coverage. Albéa provided a complete solution: a brush, wiper system, bottle and decoration. The PETG cap is screen-printed.
When it comes to brows, automatic pencils in slim and jumbo sizes were in demand at Alkos. The Group has bought a new machine that will soon be operational in order to fill airtight, propel & retract pencils ideal for precise application. Felt tip eyeliners included their bestselling calligraphic tip. Alkos will soon offer chubbies for eyeliner, lips and concealer, full service, Made in France.
Applicators & Brushes
Mylène Meunier, vice president of sales and marketing at Cosmogen, told Beauty Packaging they have launched more than 40 products this year, including packaging, brushes, skin care tools, and a full range of teardrop shaped brushes—great for precision application on one side, full coverage on the other. Cosmogen’s latest patented launch, the silicone brush range, provides a smooth, soft, sculpting and hygienic application. Easy to clean, the brushes dry instantly and offer a natural effect.
One of Albéa’s latest “complete project” launches is Lancôme’s Grandiose eye liner, which Vincenti said improves the application gesture. The “very premium pack” features a brush that bends to a 35-degree angle for stabilization, and can be customized to the left or right hand with an easy click.
Derik offered a series of compacts with clever built-in applicators. When the lid is opened, the applicator pops out of the compact. Persons told Beauty Packaging, “Multi-use products with applicators are hot.” He also said that “chubbies” continue as a popular category, including those with a brush or blender on one end and a chubby on the other.
Masking the Effects
Taiki’s Perry told Beauty Packaging that they are experiencing a strong business in facial masks, especially in the U.S. He said that the product category, influenced by Korea, is one of the few that are less developed in the U.S. than in Japan and Europe. Taiki offers a full range of pre-moistened and gel masks as well as patches.
FR & Partners offered a number of soothing facial masks and won a coveted spot on the MakeUp in Paris Innovation Tree. One-shot tissues pop out of the top of a small container when you press in the middle. A bellow breaks and pushes a liquid formula into the dry tissue, which “grows” upon contact. Products range from lip and face masks to makeup remover wipes. “Boxes” can be customized and can even be formed into blisters.
O-Pac SRL specializes in “high-tech” skin care, including masks and tissue-like single wet wipes. Of particular interest was a plumping lip mask, and a nourishing and moisturizing eye mask. The eye masks are shaped like eyes and the lip mask, like lips. A lip scrub mask features a tissue with a scrubbing element embedded. Apply the plumping mask to lips, where it heats up; leave on for 15 minutes, and lips should be noticeably fuller after 30 minutes.
Deco and Design
Beautiful metallization techniques made palettes shine at Libo Cosmetics. Especially attractive was a multi-color palette metallized in purple with a rose-gold gradient. Beryl Tsai, project manager, said, “Rose gold has been very popular.”
Baralan offered an array of interesting, textural caps for nail polish bottles. The supplier also displayed its new line of wood packaging, both jars and caps.
Injection molding and metallizing were conversation points at Fasten Design, a first-time MakeUp in Paris exhibitor from The Netherlands. In addition to metallization, all types of water transfer printing, from leopard print to marble, gave compacts and caps a tactile and luxurious appearance. An innovative cap created for a nail polish bottle resembled a leafy palm tree.
Cartons
Homer Color Printing, headquartered in Shanghai, brought a feast of color and decorative techniques to the shelf with 3D effects ranging from holograms to glittery effects. Standout cartons represented brands including tarte, Juicy and Anna Sui.
About Face
Of course MakeUp in Paris is also all about formulations and there were many in the cosmetics realm other than what’s mentioned in this article by lip or eye category.
Pharmacos offered compact powders with several layers of fill—up to five colors of baked powder in one pan. The attractive designs highlighted the Milan-based company’s accomplishments in developing several new filling technologies.
Next Edition
The next MakeUp In… show will be held in New York City on September 7-8, at Center548, 548 W 22nd St, New York, NY. More info: www.makeup-in-newyork.com
New cushion innovations are launching.
French agency Information & Inspiration, with expertise on the Asian market, was set up at the entry to the show to highlight product trends. Fei Xu, market intelligence director, China zone, explained that the cushion concept, which launched in 2008, is still popular. It has now moved on to a second generation, he said, with a metal plate that’s more hygienic and also provides a cooling effect. In some examples, the compacts are featuring two blendable colors, or a beige foundation along with a white formulation for a brightening effect. Xu said that the cushion has also now found a new identity with an evolution to a honeycomb structure.
Within the last year, cushion compacts for babies have become popular; the white cushion is soft and gentle, so the applicator is ideal for products such as sun protection. Packaging emphasizes the baby products with colorful compacts and cute graphics.
A compact with a double-layer lace cushion includes a brush to apply the formulation.
What’s next? According to Xu, the future cushion will transform to a diamond structure and will utilize new materials such as spandex, both of which will allow for precise amounts of product.
Looking for compact container?
please visit www.topbeautysh.com for more cosmetic packaging information.
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