2016-11-14 16:53:49

MakeUp in New York: About Face

2016-11-14 16:53:49

On September 7-8, more than 2,800 visitors crowded the aisles of MakeUp in NewYork and climbed up and down the four flights of stairs at Center 548 in Manhattan, glad to be back at the Chelsea venue rather than at the Brooklyn location that had been proposed. According to show management, attendance was up 15% over last year’s event held near Penn Station. For 2016, MakeUp in NewYork partnered with CIBS, CEW, FIT and Michel & Augustin. At this year’s 6th New York edition, about 65% of exhibitors specialized in formulation and full service activities, and were joined by companies in the packaging and accessories sectors. In addition to a vibrant show floor, a dynamic two-day conference program drew more than 900 visitors. Packaging Contest For the second year, MakeUp in NewYork hosted a packaging competition that was open to both American and overseas universities. Of the seven schools solicited, four (Wisconsin, Rutgers and Houston Universities, Esepac in France) participated. Juries selected winning students’ projects from, in order: University of Houston, Esepac and Rutgers. Honorable mention also went to Esepac. Trend Spotting Lips stood out as a key category for formulation and packaging developments, but as always, the show was all about the entire face. Innovations in the areas of eyes, foundation and applicators were also widely exhibited—and developments in skin care, nails and fragrance were also noted. New textures have been increasingly rolled out, and lots of gel and “soft” formulations were shown here, for both cosmetics and fragrance. Pencils, both slim-line and chunky, continue to evolve as their convenience has won over consumers. On-the-go “sharpenable” pencils were popular items. Small size products have also become consumer necessities, and there were many offerings on-hand to meet these needs. With the growing pressure for speedy launches, many suppliers were touting “short time-to-market.” With Indie Brands in mind, a number of exhibitors spoke about low quantities. “Green” was another point of discussion among some suppliers. And with the rapid advancements in digital printing, remarkable decorative options popped up on everything from bottles to compacts. Innovation Tree When it comes to cosmetic trends, central to the MakeUp In… shows is its recognizable globe-trotting Innovation Tree. Its golden branches were laden with the prize winners that had been chosen back in July, when nearly 30 companies had submitted 60 products. In the end, two dozen products were selected by a jury of seven industry experts. Winners included 11 formulations, five packages, five full-service items and three accessories. Packaging winners were Albéa, Cosmei, Qualipac and Unipack. Full-service winners included Alkos, Sunzhou Ante Cosmetics, Faber-Castell, Mascara Plus and Kolmar Laboratories. According to jury member Pauline Bonafous, marketing project manager at the creative trend forecasting agency Carlin International Group, “Regarding packaging, products submitted stand out this year in particular because of their travel size format: all-in-one packaging, compact and lifestyle facilitators. These are nomadic, full-service products that answer a growing need among consumers: a daily efficiency with products that simplify their beauty routine and do not interfere in the hectic pace of modern lifestyle.” In terms of formulas, Bonafous said the ultra-matte trend is still as popular and even gaining momentum. “No-transfer lip stains, creamy lipsticks that mattify upon application... many projects for lip formulas follow this trend.” She said one trend that is not exclusive to lip products is “liquid foundations that become velvety upon contact with the skin, and water-based gels that fade out pores and imperfections like a magic formula.” Jury member Charles-Emmanuel Gounod commented: “We evaluate an increasing number of environmentally friendly packages, because they are either designed with fewer components, or with partly recyclable materials, and this is a very good thing. Another trend includes mobile products and packages adapted to travel retail distribution, which proves that both the use and the act of purchase continue to evolve.” On Everyone’s Lips At a press conference held by Albéa prior to the show, corporate personnel spoke about the company’s capabilities in serving the cosmetics industry. They addressed the ever-accelerating needs of the marketplace, and said niche and emerging brands are driving trends faster than ever in a more competitive and volatile world influenced by politics and economics. On top of all this, according to Albéa “digitization is changing everything.” Thus, Albéa says the name of the game is “agility,” and they are responding with products that are both reliable and fast to market. From evolved plastic laminate tubes to dispensing systems, to makeup solutions, Albéa says different shapes and different gestures are all available to captivate today’s savvy consumers. At MakeUp in NewYork, Albéa highlighted two recent introductions for Lips: Artist Bubble and Parisian Kiss. Artist Bubble was created to meet the trend of nomadic packaging. Thus, the Artist Bubble offers precise performance, ease of use and practicality. According to the supplier, “its compact size facilitates the buying process thanks to its portability which allows ultrafast touch-ups of makeup.” Parisian Kiss combines an elegant tube with Albéa’s Baystick technology, a mechanism designed to guide creamy and melting formulas. The stick remains intact throughout the life of the lipstick. The technology, which was exclusive to the Prestige market, is now available for Mass. Derik Industrial (see this video of its twist-up lipstick) also featured packaging for soft lip formulations. Derik stresses the importance of innovation, and says that last year they introduced six new patents in compacts, lipglosses and lipsticks. At Schwan Cosmetics, a chubby with a lip butter formulation can have a brand logo imprinted in the bulk. Finishes were in, as shown at iTiT Cosmetics, where the formulation for Matte Me Metal won a spot on the Innovation Tree: The product is a liquid lipstick with an attractive matte metallic finish. With consumers ever more conscious about products’ ingredients lists, Step Cosmetici introduced what it calls a “food grade lipgloss.” They say the new technology makes the product easy to apply in total comfort, with unique performance in terms of hydration and nourishment. The product features an innovative texture and a mixture of ingredients all with food grade classification.” CTL Packaging (see this video of CTL's new tubes), known for its variety of full-size tubes, brought its expansive collection of perhaps lesser-known small-sized applicator tubes for lips and eyes. Baralan featured its ‘Twinpak’ package, which is two bottles connected by a cap. The Twinpak is a unique way to package two products that are meant to be used together, such as a nail polish color and top coat—or, two different nail polish colors. The Twinpak can also be useful for lipgloss, or even mascara. A brand can customize the applicators that are attached to the cap. A multiple applicator with stacked lip products towered high at Sung Power Plastic Products Co., Inc., and also won a spot on the Innovation Tree. The package can hold from 2-6 colors, and “modules” can be used for multiple products in addition to lip colors. Double-ended lip pencils, liquid lipsticks and ink gel sticks stood out among the many jars and standard packages at Coswell Korea. Lipstick tubes with magnetic caps keep lipsticks from making a mess in purses or pockets. Gel lipsticks at Nuco provided a glittery, glossy look and sensation. Faber-Castell Cosmetics presented a line of jumbo retractable pencils, solid gel lipsticks called Jelly Babies, in which the packaging “melts into” the formulation. The packaging color matches the formulation so the two are fairly indistinguishable. Alkos Group featured many innovations at the Makeup in NewYork show, and many were designed to help anyone apply makeup like a pro. The supplier’s Ombré Lips Liner enables the user to create an ombré effect on lips by using a darker line on the outer corners of the lips, while keeping the color more transparent in the center, just by filling lips with any favorite lipstick. This technique creates dimension, making the lips look fuller. Alkos Group also featured jumbo lip crayons in bright neon colors that deliver glossy sheer colors during the day and intense neon glow under black light. Keeping An Eye Out Textural formulations and concise packaging also highlighted products in the Eye category. HCT Group featured new eye shadow ranges in putty formulations, packaged in small pots. The makeup color feels like a putty, with a “bouncy” feel that has a sensorial quality. It applies like a powder, and is available in matte and pearl finishes. Long-lasting and water-resistant were two of the features marking several of Schwan Cosmetics’ products. New textures and products included a liquid eyeliner pen with a paddle-tip applicator to achieve different lines. A vinyl formula took its cue from the re-emergence and popularity of vinyl records; when dry, the high-lacquer shine stays in place for up to 24 hours. Geka’s new mascara, epicEYES, touted numerous benefits, including “intense volume and perfect lash separation.” The metallic rose gold package has a brush that promises to deliver maximum volume and separation. According to Geka, it is the “perfect combination of an applicator, packaging and bulk,” and is available as a fully finished product, with short time-to-market. (See Geka video for more info.) At Faber-Castell Cosmetics, “sharpenable” slim plastic pencils all in the same shade (barrel and formulation) were very vibrant. Double-ended mechanical pencils featured an injection-molded soft brush on the opposite end. A liquid metal version is also available. Texen, with its incorporation of Topline, continued to launch its new branding at the show, and featured many new products, including its Double Cushion compact. The package is designed to pre-load the product onto the sponge applicator that is attached to its cap. Matte finishes and cream-to-powder formulations are also on trend, and Texen has several options. “We have hybrid formulas that combine both of these characteristics,” said Sandra Hutson. Hutson showed us a cream-to-powder eyeshadow palette that delivers a matte finish, and the same type of formulation is available in a lip color. Tecnocosmesi spoke to visitors about the opening of its new factory in Montreal. The company will manufacture cosmetics, including eye shadows and powders, in the new facility, for the North American market. Unipack Korea made it onto this year’s Innovation Tree with its patent pending Dial Palette. Simple and easy to use, instead of having to open and close the lid, just rotate the lid when using. The pack can be used for 5 colors or 5 products such as eye shadow, lip balm and lipstick, and can be customized to meet clients’ needs. Facing Up As mentioned, there were many foundations, highlighters, skin care formulations and other facial products showcased by exhibitors. An assortment of brushes was also on display throughout the show floors. Taiki (see this video) featured new brush products including TaFre-g fiber, its newest alternative to animal free fibre. TaFre-g is available at “a moderate price,” according to Jim Perry, president and CEO. In addition to TaFre products, Taiki offers a full range of animal free, professional level brush sets for eyes, lips and face. Numerous brush options at Baosheng included synthetic versions for many of its animal hair brushes. Baosheng says it is hearing many requests by brands who are switching to synthetic applicators, but looking for the same performance characteristics as applicators made from animal hair.   A different “green” note came via brush fibers at Hyangnam Beauty: Green tea, red clay and carbon-infused brushes were presented as “more hygienic and eco-friendly.” Luxurious brush handles at Italian supplier Pennelifaro were literally works of art, and ideal for limited editions or promotions. Hand made in Murano by Italian artisans, they can be fashioned in any shape and combined with any filament. FM Brush showed visitors patented brush shapes in its new collection. Some of the new brushes are designed to allow the user to load more product onto the brush, and many are double-ended. “Our new brushes allow for the use of more innovative makeup application techniques,” explained Jacqueline Mink. One brush is cut into three points, which allows the user to apply three different colors separately, then blend. Another is the perfect angled shape to apply eyeliner with the most extreme precision, and create a cat-eye look with ease. Yonwoo/PKG showcased many of its cost-effective options for skin care. These include airless bottles in stick designs, and tubes with applicators attached to the cap. Some of these tube packages are ideal for eye creams and other anti-aging products. The supplier also had dropper bottles on display, which are often requested by brands for serums. Kolmar Laboratories (see video) earned a spot on the Innovation Tree for its Glimmer Silk Sponge. The supplier says this “evolution in moldable textures creates a water-free, playful, yet sophisticated, shimmering face and body bronzer in the form of a silky, spongey cream,” and is formulated without the use of GMOs, gluten, oil or animal content. Kolmar’s patented filling process paired with a unique blend of elastomeric gels and powders creates “a sheer, buildable system that glides on effortlessly, blending like a cream but leaving a satin, powder-like finish on the skin.” Stick packaging is trending for makeup, and HCT Group just launched its Hourglass Stick, which is ideal for contouring and highlighting products. HCT also promoted a number of skin care formulations that are available as turnkey items. Many of these are dual-purpose products, in dual chamber packaging. The Dual Chamber package comprises two bottles, with separate chambers and two pumps. The bottles are connected with one overcap. This design facilitates the filling process, since the bottles are filled separately. The Brik Stik (see video) at Roberts was popular for makeup applications and contouring combined. Their patent pending technology is available in double-ended and single-ended options that can be filled with any formula of choice. Bold and subtle highlight and contour looks can easily be created with its rectangular bullet shape, which makes it easy to contour at any angle. An attractive cosmetics jar with a vibrating motion top stood out at Tae Sung Group. The lid also features a light to aid in applying the skin care cream that’s held in the jar. The motion invigorates skin as it is applied. A bottle with a light-up vibrating top is also available. For skin care, cosmetics and fragrance, Jih Hsin Glass Company, Taiwan, offered beautiful digitally printed bottles. The printing needs to be done on a flat surface. Low minimums of 5,000 to 10,000 are available. Jane Huang said there had been a lot of interest at the show in 30ml jars: “Small jars are very popular,” she said. For its exhibiting debut in the United States, Sun China Packaging was presenting eco-friendly paperboard compacts, which could be produced using a wide variety of papers, including specialty choices such as glitter or “wood.” A number of decorative methods can be used to get the brand’s message across. An eco-friendly Bamboo Cosmetic Container from Cosmei adorned one of the branches of the Innovation Tree. The material is 100% natural and recyclable, and is filled with a formula made from 100% biodegradable ingredients that include organic pigments. The package is made from bamboo powder and PLA. It is a 100% natural material, and recyclable, the supplier says. The eco-friendly cosmetic package is also lightweight, since the team at Cosmei removed any additional material to reduce its weight. Fragrant Crayons Fragrance is entering nail polish and accenting other formulations as well. In a streak of change, Alkos is bringing the popular crayon applicator to fragrance. The supplier’s Fragrance Crayons might soon be a new format—and a new gesture—for fragrance packaging. The crayon makes it simple and easy to apply fragrance anytime, anywhere. There are two versions, a gel formulation and a solid perfume. The gel tip feels super soft against the skin and can be tinted in any color. It is transparent when applied to the skin and delivers a lasting subtle scent. The solid perfume crayon is slightly tinted and can be formulated with glitter, for a sparkly or highlighting effect on the skin that will wear off and blend with skin easily. Both types of crayons can be produced using a brand’s scent, including up to 10% fragrance in the formulation. Next Year’s Show MakeUp in NewYork will be back in 2017. Stay tuned for an announcement of the date and venue...

Looking for Lipstick container?

please visit www.topbeautysh.com  for more cosmetic packaging information.