2019-12-19 18:10:07

Turnkey, ‘Clean Beauty’ and Color Trends Spark Talk at MakeUp in NewYork

2019-12-19 18:10:07

Makeup and Skincare paired up for a lively two days at MakeUp in NewYork on September 11-12 at Center415 in the heart of Midtown Manhattan. The 9th edition of the popular show featured 114 exhibitors in formulation, packaging, full-service, accessories and design.

Organizers attracted 18 new exhibitors this year, with seven of them from Italy. Korean innovation was also well represented with about 20 suppliers; others traveled from France, China and Germany, as well as Canada and the U.S.

The ever-popular Innovation Tree was again representative of the most creative products from show exhibitors. About a third of this year’s exhibitors submitted entries, which were then vetted by a team of beauty specialists. In total, 73 new products, including six accessories, 26 formulations, 24 full service and 17 packaging solutions, were selected.

Trends in the makeup category leaned toward well-being, self-care routines, sustainability and a safe environment with creamy textures, formulas rich with essential oils, as well as the use of natural or bio-sourced ingredients. A number of containers were produced from recycled materials.

Final awards included 9 for Full Service; 6 for Packaging; 9 for Formulation; and 3 for Accessories. The 3 big winners, chosen by FIT students, included: Crazy Crayon by Pharmacos; Wooden Compact by APR Packaging (read on for details and see video at BeautyPackaging.com); and And/Or Makeup Brush by HNB Corporation. (See the Innovation Tree slideshow at BeautyPackaging.com.)

Additional trends spotted by Beauty Packaging included 3D creams and fancy powders, laser and other decorative customization techniques, liquid eye shadow, neon colors (in both formulation and packaging), genderless beauty, water-based skincare for eyes, lips and face, cannabis packaging, refillable packaging, talk of tariffs, and the promise of refillables. Liquid products for eye and lip were introduced by several Color Cosmetics manufacturers, as were functional applicators from pivoting pens to targeted masks for skincare.

Turnkey Services

While Turnkey Services and Clean Beauty were top of mind for many attendees, these two focuses can hardly be called trends anymore, but more “givens.” The same has become true for offers of sustainable packaging—nearly every supplier now offers a varied selection of “environmentally suitable” choices.

At CDG/A WWP Company, Alison Kohlenstein, executive vice president of CDG—a recent acquisition of WWP—briefed Beauty Packaging on WWP’s global network of turnkey, filling and packaging capabilities. The Brushes and Accessories Division, including synthetic, crystal-etched fiber brushes, was introduced at the show. While CDG is formulation-focused, and produces products in-house, Kohlenstein explained how they pair up with innovative packaging from the WWP side of the business for full service solutions.

CDG/WWP offered a CBD-infused lip balm that hydrates and nourishes with coconut and sunflower seed oils and rosemary extract. A subtle mint scent infuses the CBD oil (which contains no THC)—and the product is packaged in a sustainable, biodegradable Plant Fiber Polymer component.

Another product at CDG/WWP, Regenerate Brow Gel, is a brow treatment that’s formulated with two clinically proven cosmeceutical ingredients—one to help reverse gray; and the other to stimulate hair growth. The easy-to-use gender-neutral, non-sticky, clear gel is filled in a wand with brush.

From bottles and jars to bags, Cosmopak featured an array of full service and sustainable packaging at MakeUp in New-York. The Blue Line, based on blue water, includes tubes, compacts, sticks, airless pumps and vials. All are made of recyclable plastic including PCR, PP and PET.

The turnkey White Line highlights the Clean Beauty trend, following the “black list” of ingredients. The all-PCR line includes jars, pumps, vials, glass and rollers that are ideal for beauty and CBD.

Cosmopak earned a place on MakeUp in NewYork’s Innovation Tree for their 100% PCR PET lipstick, part of their Clean Collection, available in natural and injected colors. No-glue brushes allow the user to remove the handle and ferrule for recycling. Syeira Simon, product development and formula innovation manager, told Beauty Packaging the company is working on increasing their refillable options.

CTK Cosmetics, “a pioneer in K-Beauty,” presented a range of turnkey options for Color Cosmetics and Skincare, as well as Clean Beauty formulations in refillable packaging. Jacqueline Paterno, New York branch president, commented on the escalating popularity of the movement, telling Beauty Packaging: “Clean beauty is no longer a buzz; it’s a conversation.” A refillable pack for serums was an interesting introduction.

Turnkey provider ColorVera Biotech Group, specialists in solutions for Color, Skin, Nails and Fragrance, announced a new facility in Thailand. Yasmin Harrison, business development, explained that the 60,000 sq. ft. facility will mostly serve the U.S. market, and will especially benefit “those concerned about Chinese tariffs.” A January 2020 opening is planned.

Scott Wormser, director of customer marketing, at Wormser (see Wormser video at BeautyPackaging.com), emphasized the company’s capabilities “from concept to turnkey.” He said they specialize in all areas of cosmetic industry services.” Standing out amid many embellishments was a cosmetics line decorated with a water-transfer effect to give the illusion of marble.

Turnkey products and stick packs were a highlight at Roberts Beauty (see video at link below), where Kristen Corso, director of marketing & product development, pointed out a wide assortment of liquid eyeliners, and stick packs in geometric shapes from triangular to teardrop. Other products on display included the 360° Flex Eyeliner and the Drop Stick, a luxe teardrop-shaped stick package with a discrete propel/repel dial.

Also featured: Roberts’ Calligraphy Eyeliner, which won a spot on the MUNY Innovation Tree. This flat edge tip eyeliner updates the traditional flow-through felt eyeliner pen with an artistry feel and a luxe look.

Applicators/Tools

In addition to Pennelli Faro’s wide variety of sustainable brushes, Maurizio Arletti, sales director-Cosmetic Division, emphasized the company’s eco-responsible and sustainable facility, which is completely autonomous as far as energy (see Pennelli Faro video at BeautyPackaging.com). Pennelli Faro’s Ecosophy line of brushes uses synthetic fiber and the ferrule and handle are made of 100% recycled materials. They are working on additional ecological, sustainable products. Their Dermocura Fiber is hypoallergenic.

Eisen showcased their sharpeners at MakeUp in New-York—including their new MCS blade. The blade is designed to smoothly sharpen plastic barrel pencils. Eisen’s top-quality carbon steel blades are now produced to function specifically with plastic barrel pencils, using improved technology for extreme sharpness.

At Asquan (see video at link below), Henri Tinchant, president, explained that, in partnership with Pylote, Asquan now offers what they call a “revolutionary technology,” enabling them to produce antimicrobial and antibacterial, cosmetic and mascara brushes.

Skincare Packaging

Baralan designs, engineers and produces glass and plastic containers with related accessories—and its team excels at developing customized packaging. At MakeUp in NewYork, the Italy-based supplier presented numerous options for custom packaging, including solutions for skincare—and more. The supplier says its team meets daily challenges to deliver high-quality products, while anticipating its customers’ needs—all while focusing on environmental issues.

At family-owned Wista Packaging (see video at link below), based in Brazil, sugar cane is a key packaging material—and everything is manufactured in-house. The supplier boasts the “lightest airless pump system in the market, primarily made of green resin” and designated as such by “a very large CPC.” The supplier’s mono-material SAGE Airless System is designed for a wide range of viscosities without a pump. It’s metal-free and ideal for creams, gels, lotions, serums, oils + airless droppers for water, alcohol and microencapsulated formulas. Seven different flow control valves are available. Jerry Ruud, NA sales, explained that sugar cane has a much lower carbon footprint than other materials—and that it actually captures carbon.

Philip Cho, senior manager-business development & operations, SamHwa USA, showed Beauty Packaging their latest ampoules for cosmetics and skincare, which are being offered as turnkey items. Various sheet masks included one with Vitamin C for brightening; and a 2-step mask, to which the user adds serum afterward for spot treatments. Also, two formulas in one mask enable the user to activate upon application.

At Yonwoo/PKG, Kelly Cunningham, marketing lead, showed Beauty Packaging a number of new items including a 45-diameter square flip-top tube. A 30-diameter dual-cap dropper tube is ideal for skincare or color cosmetics. It holds two formulas: 1 in the tube and 1 in the cap. The supplier’s Selection series of airless bottles and jars features a clear bottom and slim design to lend a custom look.

Masks for skincare had evolved at Taiki USA (see video at link below). Instead of standing out as decorative, Instagram-able novelties, the focus is now more on their use as a highly effective delivery device. Jim Perry, president, CEO, said simplified packaging now highlights the formula. The emphasis is now on serious skincare with beneficial effects—and a better way to apply the products. Highlights include a T-Zone mask and individual acne dots; Duo Patch Packs deliver two unique patch formulations in one package, making it easier and more cost-effective for customers to apply targeted treatments to specific areas of their faces.

Offering packaging solutions for skincare and makeup, APC Packaging showcased their tube lineup, as well as their standard color cosmetics range. Shanna Johns, director of business development, says they provide high-quality, unique tubes to help a brand ensure its product line stands out. Modern, custom designs are available. An assortment of unique heads and applicators—such as airless pumps, roller balls, brushes, massage-rollers, silicon applicators and vibrating motors—are available. “Our tubes really provide that ‘wow’ factor to make your product stand out,” said Johns, who demonstrated a new sprayer with a really fine misting cloud—more of an orb. A CPC dropper was also getting lots of attention. Also offered: 100% recyclable paper cosmetic packaging with “no limitations” on digital printing. Johns said they are also working on refillable airless bottles and jars.

Color Cosmetics

Luxe lipstick packaging stood out at Axilone (see video at link below). Whether custom or customized stock, the supplier specializes in complex deco delivered in a short period of time.

Christine Menard, sales director and Carine Schulte, sales director, U.S. West Coast region, told Beauty Packaging about current trends in Europe, in which brands are using the same packaging format, but periodically introducing special editions with new luxe designs. Axilone has also started to develop lip gloss packaging with a wide range of decorative effects and has partnered with two applicator suppliers. The upscale supplier showed designs from YSL, Tom Ford, Shiseido and others.

Among a wide array of cosmetic packaging, Derik Industrial exhibited a selection of certified PCR items, which meet global recycling standards. They’re also working on a range of refillable items. On display was a refillable compact with a pan that pops out.

Lady Burd Cosmetics (see video at link below), turnkey providers of private label color cosmetics, premiered new Fall colors for lips and eyes. Barbara Silverman, business development, said rust and mauve Liquid Lips are trending; two eye shadows were also introduced as well as matte lipstick.

Shanghai-based turnkey manufacturer Thai Ho (see video at link below), emphasizes quality, innovation and service. With expertise in powder, including pressed baked slurry, the supplier has R&D facilities in Japan and Taiwan—and about half of their business is in the U.S. Patented formulas showcased at MakeUp in NewYork included an eye-catching 3D rose form for blush cream; and high-intensity slurry powder “that doesn’t flake.” Sandra Wu, vice general manager, said turnaround is about 45 days.

Robert Congionti, vice president of operations, Tokiwa Cosmetics America (see video at link below), explained that they have brought Japanese technology to the domestic market, with their full turnkey U.S. factory. Highlighted products produced in the new facility include innovative 2-in-1 and 3-in-one applicators. A retractable pen with 4 different tips is adapted from the stationery category. Liquid eyeliner, in numerous colors, is a specialty. Speed to market is a competitive advantage.

Lumson showcased a new range of lipsticks decorated with unique finishes and colors at MakeUp in NewYork. Sensorial features, metallization and pearl details are a few of the effects that make the new range so attractive. The supplier’s airtight lipstick is designed to preserve and protect even the most aggressive formulations. It is available in two environmentally friendly options—100% PP lipstick, which is completely recyclable; and 100% PLA lipstick, which is biodegradable.

Geka had a number of new offerings, including liquid eye shadow. Stefanie Gunz, deputy head of marketing, GEKA GmbH, also described their New Age Collection, which highlights what she called “the seasonal neon trend.”

The supplier’s new “green” initiative, vertTentation collection, a green packaging solution for mascara, was selected for inclusion on the MakeUp in NewYork Innovation Tree. The bottles are made of 100% food-confirmed PCR-PET and produced from post-consumer PET-A bottle scraps by extrusion with high vacuum de-gassing, melt filtration and SSP. Every other component, including the cap, brush and wiper, is also sustainable.

The U.S. miniPACK collection introduced Geka’s new standard travel-size mascara packaging with only 2.5ml filling volume: Three versions of the new mini mascara, include Geka’s three bestseller brushes.

Schwan Cosmetics featured their new “Lagom” product range in New York. With a focus on clean formula, natural ingredients and pure packaging, the new cosmetics line for lips, eyes, and brows combines sustainability and luxury with high-end textures. Anja Bergwitz, vice president global communications & corporate identity, Schwan, explained that Lagom is a Swedish word that means “just right.” It was used to define what Bergwitz calls “the latest trend in makeup—as well as state of mind: not too much, not too little, just right; not too bold—just enough to underscore the personality of the woman.” She said the new line creates a distinctive personal look by combining sustainability and luxury, with high-end textures and packaging. Eye shadows in four colors and three different effects (fluid, powdery, creamy) are housed in sustainable paper packaging. A new-to-market brow soap is available in a recyclable aluminum jar.

A literal wall of color pencils lined the walls at Germany-based supplier Faber-Castell Cosmetics. To celebrate the opening of their new factory in Illinois, they presented their American Beauty collection, with names including Rocky Mountains, Route 66 and California Dream. The latter includes a palette of five long-lasting eye- and lipliners in candy-like colors.

Sophie Ivens, EVP global sales & marketing, Faber-Castell, also showed Beauty Packaging a new line of retractable mini pencils “dressed-up in a fresh, colorful mix and easy to take along anywhere.” The smaller pocket size pencils are available in vintage colors.” Ivens noted, “Wood pencils are very trendy.” In addition, a matte barrel matches a matte texture. A sharpener works with wood or plastic and attaches to the end of the pencil—”so you always have a sharpener with you.”

Accessories

MG New York showcased a wide variety of options for products from makeup bags to color cosmetic palettes. Combined deco techniques provide an ultra-luxe touch, such as spot varnish and cold stamping. Some palettes featured 3D textured printing for extra pizzazz. A number of cosmetic bags are made with recycled PET. Gary Korba, chief executive & operating officer at MG New York, Inc., detailed some of the findings of seasonal trend reports they had conducted.

More MakeUp In…

Catch the upcoming U.S.-based MakeUp in LosAngeles show, February 11-12, 2020. It will be co-located with Luxe Pack LA at the downtown LA Convention Center. 




Coming soon -- a video featuring ColorVera Biotech Group.